Specialities in my opinion, can be broadly classified as :
a)Specialities by Organoleptics in their respective profile
b)Specialities by Application
c)Specialities by Dosage
d)Specialities by Process and availability of Raw materials
e)Specialities as Replacers
f)Specialities by Commodities
a)SPECIALITIES BY ORGANOLEPTICS IN THEIR RESPECTIVE PROFILE
The greatest source of inspiration is nature, which has encouraged creativity from the beginning of time. A perfumer's creations are inspired by the smell of rain on a dry earth, the romance of a sea breeze, the exotic moist woody mossy notes from a forest, the comforting scent of Cashmere Wool, the unique scent of Metals, the hedonic, pheromonic scent of Flowers, the mystic notes of roots, the seductive scent of Musk and Civet, even the faecal notes from nature!
It is notable how unique scent molecules have been found in the quest to create perfumes that are as natural-smelling as possible.
It's remarkable how using examples from nature is essential when discussing a molecule's organoleptic qualities and when expressing sensory feelings and recollections.
In my opinion the odour profile can be classified as •
• Amber
• Animalic
• Balsamic • Citrus
• Earthy
*Ambrocenide, Ambermax, Amber xtreme, Dihydro lonone Gamma, Labdamate
*Muscenone, Aldron, Aquaphore, Leatherinol, Civettone
• Supervanil, IsoButavan, Florex, Coumarone
" Nootkatone, Cis-4-Decenal, Rhuboxide, Tanderinol
• Geosmin, 2-Ethyl Fenchol, Vethymine, Vety Ether, Humus Ether
• Floral
*Magnolial, Cis-Jasmone and its lactone, Narcissone, Jasminoberry • Fruity
• Oxanthia, Frutonile, Laitonut, Pear Acetate, Floracetal, Vetac
• Green
* 1,3,5-Undacatriene, Tremone, Mevantal, Pharaone 10%, Vivaldie • Herbal
" Celerone, Toscanol, Iso Camorate, Herbox, Matsutake Acetate
• Ozonic / Marine »Calone, Butyl ozone, Azurone, Citraflor
• Spicy • Safraleine, Cumin Nitrile, Prismantol, Diantilis Ether
• Woody
• Woodiris, Norlimbanol, Sandal Acetate, Javanol, Firsantol
b)SPECIALITIES BY APPLICATIONS
Depending on the specifics of the finished product, there are several ways an application perfumer might interpret the term speciality. For instance, a larger log P value of the molecule is an obligatory requirement for a perfumer producing a laundry care scent. However, a greater log P Value will be of issue to a perfumer creating scent for a dishwasher.
Therefore, the specialisation of the molecule across many application domains is determined by its physico-chemical characteristics, such as log P, threshold, stability at various pH levels, vapour pressure, surface tension, viscosity, molecular weight, and functional groups, among others. While Hedione, for example, is beneficial in many applications, Hedione HC, the higher Cis form, is mostly inappropriate for use in cleansers and detergents, yet the molecule is appropriate for fine fragrances
c)SPECIALITIES BY DOSAGE
It's interesting to observe how some classes of compounds may drastically alter the overall aroma profile even at trace concentrations of as little as 1 ppb. The best illustration that comes to me right now is citrus oils. Al Citrus Oils are mostly made up of Terpenes and Faty Aldehydes, which are connected structurally. The precise sort of citrus aroma perceived is influenced by the trace components.
• The characteristic fresh fruit top note of grapefruit is mainly due to P-Menth-1-Ene-8-Thiol which is present at levels below 1 ppb!
• Sinensals at trace level 0.03% distinguish orange from other citrus oils.
• 2-Isobutyl-3-methoxy pyrazine (Galbanum Pyrazine) is responsible for the typical green interesting note in neroli oil which is present only in 1ppm, the key ingredient for green note in Galbanum.
d) SPECIALITIES BY PROCESS AND AVAILABILITY OF RAW MATERIALS
Some compounds can only be created in limited numbers because their manufacturing involves complex multistep reactions that need for specialised production methods and specially designed machinery. There are some natural resources that are utilised as raw materials, but their availability now depends on a variety of circumstances, including soil conditions at the time and climate change. Certain compounds can be categorised as Specialities due to the constraints of the production techniques and the raw material sources.
• Amberketal / Z11
- 3,8,8, 11a-Tetramethyldodecahydro
5H-3,5a-epoxy-napht [2,1-C] oxepin and isomers : The synthesis starts from natural raw material manool and the process is of multiple steps which includes oxidation, epoxidation and intra molecular ketalization.
• Ambroxan
- Dodechydro-3a,6,6,9a-tetramethylnaphtho (2, 1-b] furan : Prepared from Sclareol, a terpene diol obtained fromClary Sage (Natural Source). Chemist from Firmenich synthesised a racemic form ofAmbroxan called Cetalox from synthetic raw material, Beta ionone.
• Ambrettolide
- Oxacycloheptadec-10-en-2-one : It is manufactured from Aleuritic acid obtained from shellac.
e)SPECIALITIES AS REPLACERS
A perfumer may be forced to change the formulation for a variety of reasons, such as the impossibility to employ a specific fragrance chemical owing to rules or laws, or the unavailability of certain natural ingredients due to moral, religious, or legal considerations.
SandalWood Oil is the finest illustration. Chemists all around the world have provided the art of perfumery with a palette of specialty molecules as replacers due to its scarcity and other societal causes, the majority of which are now commodities.
I'd want to now discuss my personal perceptions and observations of a molecule's life cycle.
RESEARCH » CAPTIVE > SPECIALITY » COMMODITY » END OF LIFE
To find novel fragrance compounds, research scientists are working nonstop at all top laboratories across the world. The firm that does the study initially holds the results prisoner before releasing them over time in the form of specialty bases. The real molecule is then made available to everyone under patent.The speciality is mass manufactured once the patent expires and becomes a commodity. Afterwards, some molecules stop existing and reach the end of their life cycle owing to a variety of causes, including biodegradability, sensitization, and regulatory considerations.
However, certain specialties are so unique that a creative perfumer must have them on their palette. I'll briefly mention Lyral and Lilial as an illustration. Lyral is the perfect molecule for use in cosmetics because of its soft, delicate lily fresh-floral aldehydic scent. It was at the top of the list of scent molecules utilised and is now found in the majority of cosmetics sold globally. However, due to its propensity to cause allergies and skin sensitivities, it is currently prohibited.Lilial is in a similar situation. However, several muguet odorants have been synthesised as replacements as a result of the research.
Some of the Muguet and lily odorant Aldehydes which are synthesised as replacements are -
• Dupical
4-(Octahydro-4, 7-methano-5H-inden-5-ylidene )butanal
• Mahonial
9 Hydroxy 5,9 dimethyl dec-4-enal
• Aquaflora
(85) -tricyclo(5.2.1.02,6]dec-8-ylacetaldehyde (8R) - tricyclo[5.2..02,6]dec-8-ylacetaldehyde
• Muguet Aldehyde 50
((3,7-Dimethyl-6-octeny|)oxy) acetaldehyde
• Cyclemax
3-(p-cumeny)propionaldehyde
• Florahydral
3-(3-Isopropylphenyl)butanal
• Silvial
2-Methyl-3-[4-(2-methylpropy|)phenyl]
• Nympheal
3-(4-isobuty-2-methylphenypropanal
• Starfleur
3-14-(2-MethylpropylcyclohexylPropanal
Generally, Muguet Aldehydes are getting prohibited due to the potential of skin sensitization. Chemists around the world are focusing more on development of Muguet
Alcohols due to their better acceptance during testing for regulations. Some of the Muquet odorant Alcohols are as follows:
• Cyclomethylene Citronellol
3-Cyclohexene-1-propanol,gamma, 4-dimethyl-
• Carbinol Muguet (DMPEC)
Benzenepropanol, 1, 1-dimethyl-
• Mayol Cyclohexanemethanol, 4-(1-methylethyl)-,cis-
• Mugetanol 1-(4-Isopropyl-cyclohexyl)ethanol
Another classic example that is indispensable in this context is Hedione.Starting from
a minimal production of 50 kilos and price in excess of CHF 1000 / kilo was limited only
to Fine Fragrances, but is now omnipresent and is difficult to find a fragrance without this molecule. Debuting ni Eau Sauvage in 1966 at 1.8% to monolithic creations based
on Hedione such as 63% in Odeur 63 in 1998.
Regulations will never cease to be a threat to creativity and the onus is on the chemists
to exhibit their capabilities to produce newer, safer molecules for enabling a Perfumer to create better fragrances.
The goal of research and development is not just to create novel odourant molecules; it is also crucial to identify efficient and affordable manufacturing processes that will enable perfumers to use them in perfumes.
f) SPECIALITIES BY COMMODITIES
Some commodities act as modifiers when used in small dosages making the fragrance unique. A few examples which I Can recollect are:
• Benzyl Acetate, Iso butyric acid inLavender Accords • Benzyl Acetone, I s Valeric Acid in AgarwoodAccords • Maltol inAmber Accords
• Citral in RoseAccords
• Salicylic acid and Cresols in Castoreum Accords
• Iso Boronyl Acetate and PEME in SandalAccords
• Peppermint oil in Vetivert Accords
• Amyl Acetate in Ylang -Ylang Accords
• Prenyl Acetate in Apple-pear Accords
• Mazanate in Violet flower Accords
• Methyl Salicylate in Tuberose Accords
• Styrallyl Acetate in Citrus Accords
The challenges before the manufacturers of aroma chemicals are many-
TECHNOLOGY
In the manufacturing industry, new methods of synthesis and process optimisation approaches are developing. For production that is affordable, chemists and technologists should work together.
REGULATIONS
Every person of the world must be accountable for their tasks given the development of open source information and the unrestricted use of natural resources. Regulations are now necessary to hold producers and end users to a standard for the global food supply.
GREEN CHEMISTRY
The industrial model based on sustainable development is making significant strides. One of the most innovative fields of research nowadays is biotechnology, which will give rise to new methods for producing fragrance compounds. Leading academic institutions throughout the globe are focusing on green chemistry.
With its abundant resources and sizable domestic market, our nation has one of the fastest growing economies. The future expansion of the aroma chemical business is favourable due to the huge technical staff with analytical skills. To remain at the forefront, the sector must adapt quickly to the rapidly changing global demand.
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